Tom was already ill with the tuberculosis which would kill him when
Keats went on this trip. When the poet returned (having been
summoned home by friends concerned over Tom's health), he devoted himself
to nursing his brother. This care ensured his own demise from the
same disease less than three years later.
25-27 June 1818
Here beginneth my journal, this Thursday, the 25th day of June, Anno
Domini 1818. This morning we arose at 4, and set off in a Scotch mist;
put up once under a tree, and in fine, have walked wet and dry to this
place, called in the vulgar tongue Endmoor, 17 miles; we have not been
incommoded by our knapsacks; they serve capitally, and we shall go on
very well.
June 26 - I merely put pro forma, for there is no such thing as time
and space, which by the way came forcibly upon me on seeing for the
first hour the Lake and Mountains of Winander - I cannot describe them -
they surpass my expectation - beautiful water-shores and islands green
to the marge - mountains all round up to the clouds. We set out from
Endmoor this morning, breakfasted at Kendal with a soldier who had been
in all the wars for the last seventeen years - then we have walked to
Bowne's to dinner - said Bowne's situated on the Lake where we have just
dined, and I am writing at this present. I took an oar to one of the
islands to take up some trout for dinner, which they keep in porous
boxes. I enquired of the waiter for Wordsworth - he said he knew him,
and that he had been here a few days ago, canvassing for the Lowthers.
What think you of that - Wordsworth versus Brougham!! Sad-sad-sad - and
yet the family has been his friend always. What can we say? We are now
about seven miles from Rydale, and expect to see him to-morrow. You
shall hear all about our visit.
There are many disfigurements to this Lake - not in the way of land
or water. No; the two views we have had of it are of the most noble
tenderness - they can never fade away - they make one forget the
divisions of life; age, youth, poverty and riches; and refine one's
sensual vision into a sort of north star which can never cease to be
open lidded and stedfast over the wonders of the great Power. The
disfigurement I mean is the miasma of London. I do suppose it
contaminated with bucks and soldiers, and women of fashion-and hat-band
ignorance. The border inhabitants are quite out of keeping with the
romance about them, from a continual intercourse with London rank and
fashion. But why should I grumble? They let me have a prime glass of
soda water - O they are as good as their neighbors. But Lord Wordsworth,
instead of being in retirement, has himself and his house full in the
thick of fashionable visitors quite convenient to be pointed at all the
summer long. When we had gone about half this morning, we began to get
among the hills and to see the mountains grow up before us-the other
half brought us to Wynandermere, 14 miles to dinner. The weather is
capital for the views, but is now rather misty, and we are in doubt
whether to walk to Ambleside to tea - it is five miles along the borders
of the Lake. Loughrigg will swell up before us all the way - I have an
amazing partiality for mountains in the clouds. There is nothing in
Devon like this, and Brown says there is nothing in Wales to be compared
to it. I must tell you, that in going through Cheshire and Lancashire, I
saw the Welsh mountains at a distance. We have passed the two castles,
Lancaster and Kendal.
27th-We walked here to Ambleside yesterday along the border of
Winandermere all beautiful with wooded shores and Islands - our road was
a winding lane, wooded on each side, and green overhead, full of
Foxgloves - every now and then a glimpse of the Lake, and all the while
Kirkstone and other large hills nestled together in a sort of grey black
mist. Ambleside is at the northern extremity of the Lake. We arose this
morning at six, because we call it a day of rest, having to call on
Wordsworth who lives only two miles hence - before breakfast we went to
see the Ambleside water fall. The morning beautiful - the walk easy
among the hills. We, I may say, fortunately, missed the direct path, and
after wandering a little, found it out by the noise - for, mark you, it
is buried in trees, in the bottom of the valley-the stream itself is
interesting throughout with "mazy error over pendant shades." Milton
meant a smooth river - this is buffetting all the way on a rocky bed
ever various - but the waterfall itself, which I came suddenly upon,
gave me a pleasant twinge. First we stood a little below the head about
half way down the first fall, buried deep in trees, and saw it streaming
down two more descents to the depth of near fifty feet - then we went on
a jut of rock nearly level with the second fall-head, where the first
fall was above us, and the third below our feet still - at the same time
we saw that the water was divided by a sort of cataract island on whose
other side burst out a glorious stream - then the thunder and the
freshness. At the same time the different falls have as different
characters; the first darting down the slate-rock like an arrow; the
second spreading out like a fan - the third dashed into a mist-and the
one on the other side of the rock a sort of mixture of all these. We
afterwards moved away a space, and saw nearly the whole more mild,
streaming silverly through the trees. What astonishes me more than any
thing is the tone, the coloring, the slate, the stone, the moss, the
rock-weed; or, if I may so say, the intellect, the countenance of such
places. The space, the magnitude of mountains and waterfalls are well
imagined before one sees them; but this countenance or intellectual tone
must surpass every imagination and defy any remembrance. I shall learn
poetry here and shall henceforth write more than ever, for the abstract
endeavor of being able to add a mite to that mass of beauty which is
harvested from these grand materials, by the finest spirits, and put
into etherial existence for the relish of one's fellows. I cannot think
with Hazlitt that these scenes make man appear little. I never forgot my
stature so completely - I live in the eye; and my imagination,
surpassed, is at rest - We shall see another waterfall near Rydal to
which we shall proceed after having put these letters in the post
office. I long to be at Carlisle, as I expect there a letter from George
and one from you. Let any of my friends see my letters - they may not be
interested in descriptions - descriptions are bad at all times - I did
not intend to give you any; but how can I help it? I am anxious you
should taste a little of our pleasure; it may not be an unpleasant
thing, as you have not the fatigue. I am well in health. Direct
henceforth to Port Patrick till the 12th July. Content that probably
three or four pair of eyes whose owners I am rather partial to will run
over these lines I remain; and moreover that I am your affectionate
brother John.